The best way to fix this is going to be to introduce very low levels of this stimuli while giving Coco things that she loves. I recommend getting a skateboard and putting it in a room with you and Coco. Just leave it there and do not touch it. We do not want any movement in regards to the skateboard because it may startle her. The ultimate goal is for you to place her treats on top of the skateboard and her to get them off confidently. It may take a few different sessions of this before she confidently takes the treat off of it.
You can encourage her to get close to the skateboard , but do not force her to. Let her adjust at her own pace. When she is doing that with confidence start to slowly move the skateboard around with your hand while continuing to reward her. With repetition she should start to tolerate skateboards, or even start to enjoy the presence of one. This next part involves the harness leash system that I mentioned previously. This is because the next thing I recommend is going out into the environment where you usually encounter these skateboards.
The most important thing is distance. The closer she is to these people on skateboards the more frightened she will be. Start giving her the things she loves. If that is going smoothly and she is getting confident start to decrease your distance from the skateboards. Moving closer may not be possible in the first session. If at any point she starts getting uncomfortable start moving further away. More distance should make her feel better. Remember to stay patient and positive as this can take some time to conquer.
Most dogs love meal time. This is a perfect opportunity to do some sits, downs, etc. Another good exercise is getting the bowl all the way to the ground before your dog goes after it. Remember to have patience! Sound familiar? For those who have just added a four-legged friend to the household, bear in mind that this time is not only exciting, but having a pet at home is also extremely beneficial to kids, especially when it comes to teaching them responsibility. A great way to do that is involving kids in training. As soon as the dog is lying down, make sure your child gives the dog the treat and lots of praise.
As your child does this, your dog will rock back into a sit. As soon as the dog sits, have your child praise your pup and give him the treat. Your dog will watch the toy or treat and start walking along nicely.
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Sometimes they do this behavior because they have associated jumping up with being rewarded by petting and praising attention. Dogs love you as their owner and often want to show their love by jumping on you. Sometimes they are just over friendly!
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Jumping up gives the dog attention, so it is important how you respond. Pushing the dog away could be interpreted as a sign of play. A better idea is to teach the dog when to jump, if that is your desire, and when to stay down. Begin teaching your dog not to jump by crouching down to his or her level to pet them. That keeps the behavior under your control. If your dog is prone to jumping when a friend comes by, you may want to put a leash on to keep him or her from leaping up.
When the dog obeys, offer praise and petting to reinforce good behavior. Dogs will not only jump on people, but on furniture if they are not taught to stay down. This is another behavior that is encouraged sometimes by visitors who think the dog is cute and cuddly. It is better to train the dog to stay off the furniture at all times, to avoid this confusion. If unwanted jumping behavior continues, such as when you come home from work, you will need to try different strategies, such as ignoring the dog for a period of time when you first arrive at home. After the dog is calmer, then you should bend down and give some attention at that time.
The more you reinforce good behavior and correct bad behavior, the more your dog will respond to the good reinforcement. Be patience and practice the training often. For persistent jumpers, consider hiring a trainer to teach the dog the right behavior.
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Dogs who walk well on leash face fewer dangers and have more fun. It's well worth the time to develop this skill with your puppy. What's this Thing on My Neck?
The first step in leash training is to get the pup used to a collar. Expect the pup to scratch at it. Put the collar on when the pup is eating and playing under your supervision. Distract the puppy from thinking about the collar. Remove the collar only at a time when the pup is NOT trying to get out of it.
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If you take the collar off when the pup is obsessing over getting it off, you encourage the pup to fight the collar. To the puppy, it seems that fighting the collar worked, and got that nasty collar removed! Just like wearing a watch or a ring feels strange to you at first, the strange sensation of a collar can annoy a dog. In the same way that your senses habituate to the jewelry, the dog will get used to the collar when handled properly. Of course the collar needs to fit and should not be of a stiff or uncomfortable design.
A lightweight nylon collar with a buckle or snap is a good choice. Remove the collar whenever your pup goes into the crate. Ideally a puppy wouldn't be left outside unsupervised, but if the puppy is going to be in this situation, the risks must be weighed. Some breeds are especially prone to the collar catching on something and strangling the dog the reason collars are to be removed whenever a dog is crated.
On the other hand, a dog left outside unsupervised is at risk of being lost, and collar identification saves dogs' lives. Both of these risks are also factors for dogs outside in covered kennel runs.
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Some puppy breeders give you a head start on leash-training your new puppy by tying a piece of colored yarn or rickrack around the neck of each pup. This practice varies from breeder to breeder and from breed to breed-what's ideal for some is not a good idea for others. Whether the breeder has done this or not, your puppy will likely start ignoring the sensation of wearing a collar within a few days of your conditioning. Is This Another Tail or a Toy? The next step is to add a leash. Some pups seem overwhelmed by an entire leash all at once. In these cases you can start with a string, shoelace, or something of the sort.
Add length as the puppy gets used to it. Experienced dog people learn that chewed leashes can be useful later, and this is one of those times.
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Dogs tend to chew through leashes several inches from the snap. This leaves a "tab" of leash material with a handy snap on it to attach and detach easily from the collar. Tabs occasionally come in handy for other training, too, so if your mouthy young dog "creates" one for you from a leash, be sure to save it! Attach the leash or the short item to the collar when the puppy is eating or playing, and let the pup get used to it being there.
As with the collar, don't remove it when pup is making a fuss about it. Remove it at a time the pup has forgotten it's there. Do not leave a leash on an unattended dog. It can catch on things and trap the dog in dangerous and traumatic situations. Leashes are only safe during supervised times. It's fine to apply Bitter Apple to the leash, but realize this substance does not last long as a chewing deterrent, and will need to be reapplied for every session. Doing this can keep leash-chewing from ever becoming a habit, and save you money, work and the worry of a loose dog. Training Techniques Before you pick up the other end of the leash with it attached to the puppy, you need to first put in some time conditioning your puppy to come to you and to move with you.
Treats are ideal for this training.